“Mom, I want to live in a Trullo,” said little ten year-old chubby me with a grin. I was convinced this is where I wanted to be.
“Anna, we have to go, you can’t live here.”
“Mom, I’m staying.”
“Anna, no.”
Then ten year-old chubby me proceeded to scream her head off. I had my fit, but I didn’t win that battle. I reluctantly got on the bus thinking, well, who would cook my meals, I’m only ten.
Now at thirty-five, I am back in Alberobello. It was a thrill to see these beautiful little Trulli again. It brought me back to my first experience in Italy, and how it truly impacted my life. It all started with one little Trullo.
Reader, you may be asking, what is a Trullo. This woman keeps writing about it. In fact, a Trullo is, in a nutshell, a traditional Apulian dry stone hut typical to the Itria valley that consists of Alberobello and the surrounding areas. People come from all over the world to see these unique structures. They are so special that they are protected under Italian law, and are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Convention. (I have provided the link for more information on the history of the Trullo). https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/787/
Trulli in Alberobello
Out and about in Alberobello
The town is situated on two hills. The hill towards the east is the modern part of the city. On the west, however, lies the magical historical center subdivided into districts called Monti and Aia Piccola.
I rented a little trullo on Via Don Giuseppe Caramia, 12. The host Francesco was extremely hospitable, helpful, and answered any question I had from how to turn off the induction oven to the location of the bus stop to go back to Bari. (Note: Transportation is difficult. If you don’t have a car, have a plan C and a plan D. Plan a back-up before you go. Make sure you know where the stop is BEFORE you leave. I found my stop before I took all of my belongings so I was confident I knew exactly where to go. It was a holiday so the information center was closed, you’d think it would be open on a holiday, but this is how it goes in Italy. You need to be as “autosufficiente” (self-sufficient) as possible. We even learn Italian at Not My Grandmother’s Italy!
My Trullo was right in the center of town; I was in the center of the action. So I proceeded down on Via Felice Cavallotti, followed the road and made a quick left on Via Imbriani and then I made a right and finally reached the main drag Corso Vittorio Emanuele. (Of course I used google maps, but if you decide to go to Alberobello, you can use these streets as a point of reference in the center of town). Via Garibaldi is also a good road to keep in mind. The train station was ten minutes on foot from the Trullo. On Easter Sunday I went to mass at the Basilica Santuario Santi Medici Cosma e Damiano. The Basilica was beautiful as usual, but the poor priest was a little off key during his chanting. Jesus forgives.
Basilica Santuario Santi Medici Cosma e Damiano
After mass I had a cappuccino at this cute little bar called Central Bar right near the Basilica. It cost 1.60 euro for a cappuccino. A little steep, but that's the price you pay for quality. I went back again for a cornetto al pistacchio the next day. It was huge and didn’t disappoint. They were very nice to me, and I highly recommend it.
The Streets of Alberobello
The magic of this little city is going through the streets and experiencing the atmosphere. This is something I can’t describe in a blog, but what I can do is let you live the experience through my words and write about the places I’ve been so hopefully someday my readers can have the same experience.
The bustling streets of Alberobello
I wanted a souvenir. So I got something called a Pumo di Puglia (pictured below in my hand). It is a flower bud surrounded by growing leaves that symbolizes Spring and the rebirth of nature, prosperity, fertility, and abundance. It originated in the city of Grottaglie and is made of ceramic. As they say in Italian, “porta fortuna,” (it brings good luck). God knows I need it.
I have always loved the artisan in Italy. These are people with amazing skills, and I really admire their artistry. Call me a grandma, but I love a good embroidered table runner, doily, or as they say “ornamental matt.” It makes those little statues, ehm, dust collectors look ever so lovely. You can find a great selection of anything your heart desires embroidered by the talented Sara Giacovelli at L’arte Tramandata. I saw this girl making them as I stepped into her store. I knew I was in the right place.
As I walked away from the Basilica on Easter Sunday in the center of Alberobello I had a flashback to my childhood vacation here. I could see my sister holding my mother’s hand, and as usual, I was next to my father. (He would always quote the line from a Peggy Lee song after every holiday). I looked up at him and he said, his eyes glimmering, “Is that all there is to Alberobello?”
Not My Grandmother's Italy Recommendations
Souvenir Shops:
L’arte Tramandata
Di Giacovelli Sara
Via Monte SAn Michele 24/26 Alberobello (Ba) Tel: +39 080/4037427
Casedda a Cummersa
Prodotti Tipici artigianali - Souvenir
Via Monte Sabotino, 26 - Alberobello (Ba)
Cell. 338 7423444 - 339 7076357
Restaurants and Bars worth noting:
Central Bar dal 1961
Cioccolateria - Pasticceria - Gelateria
C.so Vitt. Emanuele, 49 - Cell. 320 6465543
ALBEROBELLO - centralbari1961@gmail.com
La Cantina - ristorante
Vico Lippolis 9
080.4323473
L’Aratro - ristorante
Via Monte San Michele 25
080.4322789
Where I stayed in Alberobello
Trulli Paparale
Via Giovanni Girolamo, 6/A
70011 - Alberobello
They have resorts as well as places to stay in the center of town. I stayed in the center at
Via Don Giuseppe Caramia, 12, I recommend this Trullo not only because it was beautiful, but you are right in the center and do not need a car at all to get around. The historical center, where the Trulli are located, is right around the corner.
Transportation:
Plan your trip ahead of time with these websites. For buses to Alberobello from Bari, take the Ferrovie del Sud Est. Info on website.
The sites of Alberobello
The Trullo Church (Chiesa a Trullo)